Isenfluh - Schynige Platte

Via Berna, Stage 14

Experience report

A lot of elevation gain, but it’s well worth it

Early in the morning, we share the train from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen with lots of day-trippers. Still a bit sleepy, we board the small PostBus in Lauterbrunnen. All the seats are taken, so some passengers have to stand during the 20-minute journey. ‘Why don’t they use a bigger PostBus?’ I wonder. But I soon realise why. The road up to Isenfluh is narrow and winding – there’s hardly any room to let oncoming traffic pass. Much of the route runs through a tunnel. We get off at the terminus and marvel at the view, whilst all the other passengers make their way along the short path to the cable car heading towards Sulwald. Instead of going up, we’re heading down – steeply down – on foot. No sooner are we in the forest than we encounter our first surprise. We hear a rustling sound and, moments later, a chamois leaps through the bushes close to the edge of the path. Unfortunately, it’s a bit too quick for our still-sleepy reflexes to get our cameras out. After about an hour, we reach Zweilütschinen and enjoy the first – and last – few metres of flat ground on the way to Gündlischwand. From here on, it’s a steady climb. We have to tackle a full 1,300 metres of elevation gain, without a single flat section. We’re not quite aware of this as we tackle the first few metres of the climb. Our pace is brisk, partly because we’re trying to escape the swarms of flies and horseflies. After the first few metres of climbing – and, unfortunately, the first few bites – we’ve made it and slow our pace slightly.

Two-thirds of the climb is through forest. Not ideal if you’re after beautiful views, but a real advantage in the battle against the heat on this particular day. All the more reason to savour the glimpses we catch between the mighty tree trunks and in the few small clearings. Or are we just looking for an excuse to catch our breath? We leave the forest behind and reach a small plateau, from where we can enjoy the view of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau rising behind the Männlichen. Yet another good reason for a drink and photo break. The closer we get to our destination, the more mystical the famous trio appears. We walk past cows and tackle the last stretch of the climb before spotting the Schynige Platte station behind the next rock. With every step, that long-awaited soft drink and summit beer get closer. Only in the last few metres do we realise how popular Schynige Platte is as a day-trip destination. People everywhere are pulling out their cameras to take souvenir photos. What a contrast to the climb, when we crossed paths with just one family. After that much-anticipated drink and a short break, we take our own souvenir photos and, exhausted but happy, join the day-trippers on the Schynige Platte Railway. On the way down to Wilderswil, we enjoy the last stunning views – and squeeze in a little nap along the way.

Out and about for you: Mara Kurz and Christoph Bill

Posted on 25 August 2023